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Devices & Products16 min read

Red light strips for sauna

The idea sounds perfect. You're already sitting in a hot sauna, sweating, relaxing, soaking in infrared heat. Why not add red light therapy strips to the walls and get photobiomodulation at the same time? It's a smart concept. But the reality is more complicated than most sellers want you to know. Here's what actually works, what doesn't, and how to avoid wasting money on strips that look impressive but deliver almost nothing therapeutically.

Quick answer

Most red light LED strips sold for saunas don't deliver therapeutic-grade irradiance. They look nice, but they're designed for ambient lighting, not photobiomodulation. To get real benefits, you need strips with verified 660nm or 850nm wavelengths putting out at least 20-30 mW/cm2 at skin distance, with an IP65+ moisture rating and a heat tolerance above 80C. Even then, high sauna temperatures shorten LED lifespan significantly. Dedicated sauna-rated RLT panels are usually the better investment.

20+ mW/cm2
Min irradiance needed
660nm + 850nm
Best wavelengths
IP65+
IP rating needed
80C+
Heat tolerance

The concept: combining sauna heat with red light therapy

Saunas and red light therapy work through completely different biological mechanisms. Saunas raise your core body temperature, trigger heat shock proteins, increase cardiovascular output, and push your body into a deep sweat. Red light therapy delivers specific wavelengths of light that penetrate your skin and stimulate mitochondrial function at the cellular level.

Combining them makes intuitive sense. You're already spending 15-30 minutes in the sauna. Why not absorb therapeutic light at the same time? The vasodilation from heat opens up blood vessels, which could theoretically improve how your tissue responds to photobiomodulation. And you're sitting there with bare skin exposed, which is exactly what red light therapy requires.

That's the pitch. And it's not wrong. But it skips over some important details.

The problem isn't the concept. The problem is the execution. Most "red light strips for sauna" products on the market are standard LED lighting strips repackaged with wellness marketing. They emit light in the red spectrum, sure. But they don't emit it at the right wavelengths, at the right intensity, or with the durability to survive long-term in a sauna environment.

Two different therapies, two different mechanisms

Sauna therapy works through systemic heat stress. Your whole body heats up, your heart rate rises, heat shock proteins activate, and you sweat. Red light therapy works through targeted photon absorption by cytochrome c oxidase in your mitochondria. They complement each other, but one can't replace the other. A hot sauna doesn't give you photobiomodulation, and a red light panel doesn't make you sweat.

How red light strips in a sauna actually work

LED strips are flexible circuit boards with small LED chips mounted at regular intervals. For sauna use, these strips get mounted to the walls, ceiling, or bench framing inside the cabin. When powered on, they emit light in whatever wavelength their LEDs are rated for.

Here's where it gets interesting. For photobiomodulation to work, the light needs to hit three criteria. First, it needs to be at a wavelength that your cells can actually absorb, specifically the 630-670nm range (visible red) or the 810-860nm range (near-infrared). Second, it needs enough intensity (irradiance) to deliver a meaningful energy dose to your tissue. Third, it needs to reach you at a close enough distance that the inverse square law doesn't reduce the irradiance to nothing.

1

Wavelength matters

The LEDs must emit at specific bioactive wavelengths. 660nm and 850nm are the most studied. Generic 'red' LEDs might peak at 620nm or 640nm, which are far less effective for photobiomodulation.

2

Irradiance at skin distance

The light intensity reaching your skin needs to be at least 20 mW/cm2 for therapeutic benefit. Most decorative LED strips put out 1-5 mW/cm2 at 12 inches. That's not enough.

3

Exposure time and total dose

Even low-irradiance strips can work in theory if you sit close enough for long enough. But you'd need very long sessions or extremely close positioning, which defeats the convenience of a strip setup.

4

Wavelength consistency

Cheap LEDs have wide spectral bands. They might peak at 660nm but spread from 630nm to 690nm. Therapeutic-grade LEDs have a narrow spectral bandwidth of plus or minus 10nm.

The math is straightforward. If your strips put out 5 mW/cm2 at your skin, you'd need a 67-minute exposure just to reach 20 J/cm2, which is on the low end of a therapeutic dose. Most people spend 15-30 minutes in a sauna. So your strips are delivering maybe a quarter of a useful dose. That's not nothing. But it's not the game-changer that marketing copy suggests either.

Types of red light LED strips

Not all red LED strips are the same. The differences matter a lot when you're trying to get actual therapeutic value instead of just a red glow.

660nm red strips

These emit visible red light at the 660nm wavelength, which is one of the most studied wavelengths in photobiomodulation research. At 660nm, light penetrates about 8-12mm into tissue. That's deep enough for skin conditions, surface-level inflammation, and collagen stimulation. It's not deep enough for joint pain, deep muscle recovery, or anything that requires penetrating past the skin and subcutaneous fat.

850nm near-infrared strips

Near-infrared at 850nm penetrates much deeper: 25-45mm. This reaches muscles, joints, and even bone tissue. The catch? 850nm is invisible to the human eye. You won't see the glow. Your sauna won't look any different when these are on. That bothers some people, but it shouldn't. The therapeutic value of 850nm for deep tissue is well established. You just can't see it working.

Dual wavelength strips

Some manufacturers offer strips that alternate between 660nm and 850nm LEDs along the same strip. This gives you both surface-level and deep tissue coverage. It's the most versatile option. But dual-wavelength strips are harder to find in high-quality versions, and they cost more. The LED density for each wavelength is also halved since the spots are shared between two different LED types.

LED strip types and their therapeutic potential
Strip typeWavelengthPenetrationVisibilityBest for
660nm red660nm (visible red)8-12mmBright red glowSkin, collagen, surface inflammation
850nm NIR850nm (near-infrared)25-45mmInvisible (faint red)Deep tissue, muscles, joints
Dual wavelength660nm + 850nm8-45mmModerate red glowFull-spectrum coverage
Generic 'red'620-640nm (varies)4-8mmBright red glowAmbient lighting only

Watch out for generic red LEDs

Many sauna LED strips use standard 620nm or 630nm red LEDs. These are common in decorative lighting and cost very little. But 620nm has far less research support than 660nm, and its tissue penetration is shallower. Always check the actual wavelength specification, not just the color description. "Red" isn't a wavelength. 660nm is.

Why most LED strips aren't therapeutic grade

This is the part sellers don't emphasize. And it's the most important thing to understand before spending money.

Therapeutic-grade photobiomodulation requires irradiance. That's the measure of how much light power hits each square centimeter of your skin, expressed in mW/cm2. Clinical studies that show real benefits typically use devices delivering 20-200 mW/cm2 at the treatment surface.

Standard LED strips? They're designed for lighting, not therapy. A typical 5050-type LED strip might draw 14 watts per meter. That power gets spread across dozens of small LEDs and radiates in all directions. By the time it reaches your skin 12-24 inches away, you might be getting 1-5 mW/cm2. Maybe less.

Compare that to a dedicated red light therapy panel. A mid-range panel puts out 80-150 mW/cm2 at 6 inches. That's 20 to 150 times more irradiance than a typical LED strip. The difference isn't subtle. It's enormous.

1-5
mW/cm2 from typical strips
20-30
mW/cm2 minimum therapeutic
80-150
mW/cm2 from dedicated panels
20-150x
power gap (strips vs panels)

Does that mean strips are useless? Not necessarily. Low-level light therapy at very low irradiances can still produce some biological effects, particularly for skin exposed at close range. But the effects will be modest compared to proper equipment. You're getting a whisper when you need a conversation.

The irradiance problem compounds with distance

Light intensity follows the inverse square law. Double the distance, and you get one-quarter the irradiance. In a sauna, strips mounted on the walls might be 12-36 inches from your body depending on the cabin size and your position. If a strip puts out 10 mW/cm2 at 6 inches (which would be generous), it's delivering about 2.5 mW/cm2 at 12 inches and barely 1.1 mW/cm2 at 18 inches.

The strips closest to you matter the most. The ones on the far wall? They're basically decorative at that point.

What to look for when buying sauna LED strips

If you're going to buy LED strips for your sauna, you might as well buy ones that actually deliver some therapeutic value. Here's what separates useful strips from expensive mood lighting.

Wavelength specificity

The product listing should state the exact peak wavelength: 660nm, 850nm, or both. If it just says "red" or "infrared" without a specific nanometer rating, move on. You also want to see the spectral bandwidth. Good therapeutic LEDs have a bandwidth of plus or minus 10-15nm. Cheap LEDs might spread across 30-40nm, which means a lot of the light energy falls outside the therapeutic window.

Irradiance per strip

This is the hardest spec to find, and the most important one. Most LED strip sellers list wattage per meter but not irradiance at any given distance. Look for strips that provide mW/cm2 readings at a specified distance. If no irradiance data exists, that's a red flag. The manufacturer either hasn't tested it or doesn't want you to see the numbers.

Heat tolerance rating

Standard LED strips are rated for operating temperatures up to 50-60C. A traditional sauna hits 80-100C. An infrared sauna runs cooler, typically 50-65C. See the problem? Standard strips will degrade rapidly in a traditional sauna and may struggle even in an infrared cabin. You need strips rated for at least 80C operating temperature, and ideally 100C+ for traditional saunas.

Moisture and IP rating

Saunas are wet environments. Steam, sweat, and humidity attack electronics. The IP (Ingress Protection) rating tells you how well the strip handles moisture. For sauna use, you want IP65 at minimum (protected against water jets) and ideally IP67 (can be submerged briefly). IP20 strips, which are the most common, have zero moisture protection and will fail quickly.

IP ratings and their suitability for sauna environments
IP ratingMoisture protectionSauna suitability
IP20No protectionNot suitable. Will corrode and fail quickly.
IP44Splash resistantMarginal. May survive in dry infrared saunas short-term.
IP65Water jet resistant, silicone coatedGood for infrared saunas. Acceptable for traditional.
IP67Submersible to 1 meterBest option for any sauna type.
IP68Continuous submersionOverkill for saunas but will last the longest.

What to look for

  • Specific wavelength listed: 660nm, 850nm, or both
  • Irradiance data at a measured distance
  • Operating temp rated 80C+ (or 60C+ for IR sauna only)
  • IP65 or higher moisture rating
  • Narrow spectral bandwidth (plus or minus 10-15nm)
  • Silicone or heat-resistant enclosure

Red flags

  • Vague 'red light' or 'infrared' without nm spec
  • No irradiance measurements available
  • Standard 50-60C temperature rating
  • IP20 or no IP rating listed
  • Marketed as 'therapeutic' with no clinical data
  • Suspiciously cheap compared to known therapeutic LEDs

Installation: mounting, wiring, and positioning

Getting LED strips into a sauna isn't as simple as peeling off the adhesive backing and sticking them to the wall. The heat environment creates challenges that don't exist in normal installations.

Best mounting positions

You want the strips as close to your body as possible. The bench backrest is the best location for most setups. When you're leaning back, the strips sit just inches from your skin, maximizing the irradiance that actually reaches you. Under-bench mounting works too, especially for targeting legs and feet.

Ceiling mounting looks dramatic but performs poorly. The distance from ceiling to body is typically 2-4 feet in a sauna, which slashes irradiance to almost nothing. Wall mounting is fine if you position strips at seated body height, but the distance to your body depends on how wide the cabin is.

1

Choose your mounting location

Behind the backrest is ideal. Along the bench edges works for legs. Avoid ceiling-only installations since the distance kills irradiance.

2

Use aluminum channel for heat sinking

LEDs generate heat. In a sauna, that heat has nowhere to go. Aluminum mounting channels act as heat sinks, pulling heat away from the LEDs and extending their lifespan.

3

Run wiring outside the hot zone

Route power cables and connectors through the wall to the exterior. Use heat-rated silicone wire for any sections inside the sauna. Standard PVC-insulated wire softens and fails in sauna temperatures.

4

Use a low-voltage power supply rated for the load

Most LED strips run on 12V or 24V DC. Keep the power supply OUTSIDE the sauna. Run only the low-voltage DC wiring into the cabin. Never put a mains voltage power supply inside a sauna.

5

Secure strips mechanically, not just with adhesive

The adhesive on LED strips fails in heat. Use aluminum channels with snap-on covers, or mechanical clips rated for high temperatures. The adhesive is fine as a supplement, but don't rely on it alone.

6

Test before sealing everything up

Run the strips for a full sauna session before doing final installation. Check for flickering, hot spots, or any signs of distress. It's much easier to fix problems before everything is mounted permanently.

The backrest trick

Build a custom backrest panel with LED strips mounted behind a thin cedar slat screen. The slats protect the strips from direct contact while allowing light to pass through the gaps. This puts the LEDs within 2-4 inches of your back, which is close enough for meaningful irradiance even from lower-power strips.

Heat and LED performance: the unavoidable tradeoff

This is the elephant in the room. LEDs hate heat. And saunas are, by definition, hot. This creates a fundamental engineering problem that no marketing copy can wish away.

How heat affects LED output

As temperature increases, LED efficiency drops. This happens because higher temperatures increase non-radiative recombination in the LED semiconductor. In plain English: more of the electrical energy turns into waste heat instead of light. A red LED that produces 100% of its rated output at 25C might only produce 70-80% at 60C and 50-60% at 85C.

So your strips are already weak on irradiance. Then the sauna heat knocks another 20-40% off their output. You're starting from a disadvantage and digging deeper.

The lifespan problem

LEDs are rated for lifespan in hours, typically 25,000 to 50,000 hours under normal conditions. But those ratings assume operation at or near room temperature. For every 10C increase above the rated temperature, LED lifespan roughly halves. A strip rated for 50,000 hours at 25C might last only 12,000 hours at 60C and less than 6,000 hours at 80C.

If you use your sauna 4 times per week for 30 minutes, that's about 100 hours per year. Even at the reduced 6,000-hour lifespan, you'd get decades of use in theory. But real-world failures from thermal stress, moisture corrosion, and adhesive degradation often cut that much shorter. Plan on replacing strips every 2-5 years in a sauna environment.

LED performance degradation by operating temperature
TemperatureLED efficiencyLifespan impactSauna type
25C (77F)100% (rated)Full rated lifespanRoom temperature (baseline)
45C (113F)~90%~70% of rated lifespanWarm infrared sauna
60C (140F)~75-80%~40-50% of rated lifespanHot infrared sauna
80C (176F)~55-65%~20-25% of rated lifespanTraditional Finnish sauna
100C (212F)~40-50%~10-15% of rated lifespanHot traditional sauna

Wavelength shift in heat

Here's something most people don't consider. Heat causes LEDs to shift their peak wavelength. Red LEDs typically shift about 0.1-0.2nm per degree Celsius. In a sauna at 80C (55 degrees above room temp), a 660nm LED might shift to 665-671nm. That's still within the therapeutic window, so it's not catastrophic. But it's another variable working against you.

Near-infrared LEDs shift similarly. An 850nm LED at 80C might peak around 856-861nm. Again, still useful, but not exactly what was advertised.

Traditional saunas are the hardest on LEDs

If you have a traditional Finnish sauna running at 80-100C with steam (loyly), you're creating the worst possible environment for LEDs. The combination of extreme heat, rapid temperature cycling (heating up and cooling down each session), and moisture from steam will degrade strips faster than any other scenario. Infrared saunas at 50-65C are much more forgiving.

The alternative: dedicated sauna RLT panels

Before you commit to LED strips, consider the alternative that most serious red light therapy users end up choosing: a dedicated panel designed for sauna use.

Several manufacturers now make red light therapy panels specifically engineered for sauna environments. These aren't strips. They're compact, high-power LED arrays with proper heat sinking, sealed electronics, and verified therapeutic irradiance. The difference in performance is dramatic.

LED strips vs dedicated sauna red light panels
FeatureLED stripsDedicated sauna panel
Irradiance at 6 inches1-10 mW/cm260-150+ mW/cm2
Wavelength accuracyVariable (often unverified)Verified 660nm and/or 850nm
Heat tolerance50-80C (most strips)Engineered for 80-100C
Moisture protectionIP20-IP65 (varies)IP65+ (sealed design)
Lifespan in sauna2-5 years typical5-10+ years
Coverage areaNarrow linear stripWide flood pattern
Third-party testingRarely availableUsually available from reputable brands
Price range$30-200 for full setup$200-800 per panel

The irradiance difference alone should give you pause. A dedicated panel at 100 mW/cm2 delivers the same dose in 3 minutes that a 5 mW/cm2 strip takes 60 minutes to deliver. In a 20-minute sauna session, the panel gives you a full therapeutic dose. The strips give you maybe a third of one.

Placement options for panels

Dedicated sauna panels can mount on the wall at seated height, on the bench backrest, or even on the door interior. Some people position a panel outside the sauna's glass door, shining in through the glass. This keeps the electronics entirely out of the heat while still delivering light therapy. Near-infrared at 850nm passes through clear glass with about 85-90% transmission. It's not perfect, but it solves the heat problem entirely.

The outside-the-door approach

If you have an infrared sauna with a glass door, try mounting your red light panel on a stand just outside the door, aimed at your seated position. You get full panel irradiance without any heat exposure to the device. Your panel lasts its full rated lifespan, and you still get combined sauna and red light therapy during every session.

DIY vs pre-built sauna red light setups

You've got two paths. Build your own setup from components, or buy a pre-built solution designed for saunas. Both have their place.

The DIY approach

DIY gives you control over every component. You choose the exact LED chips, the strip density, the power supply, and the mounting system. For someone with electronics experience, this can produce a better result than off-the-shelf sauna strips at a lower cost.

The key components for a DIY build: high-power 660nm and/or 850nm LED strips (look for strips using Epistar, Cree, or Osram chips), aluminum mounting channels with thermal adhesive, a quality constant-voltage LED driver kept outside the sauna, silicone-insulated wiring for the in-sauna sections, and IP67 silicone tube enclosures for moisture protection.

Pre-built sauna light kits

Several companies sell ready-to-install kits specifically marketed for sauna use. These typically include pre-cut strips, mounting hardware, wiring, and a power supply. The advantage is simplicity. The disadvantage is that many of these kits use the same low-irradiance LEDs that won't deliver therapeutic doses.

If you go pre-built, ask the manufacturer for irradiance data measured at a realistic distance (6-12 inches). If they can't provide it, assume the strips are for ambient lighting, not therapy.

DIY advantages

  • Choose exact wavelength and LED quality
  • Higher irradiance possible with premium components
  • Full control over mounting and positioning
  • Often cheaper for equivalent performance
  • Can upgrade individual components over time

DIY disadvantages

  • Requires electronics knowledge and soldering skills
  • No warranty on the assembled system
  • Risk of wiring errors in a wet/hot environment
  • Time-intensive to research and source parts
  • Safety is entirely your responsibility

The hybrid approach

Here's what a lot of experienced sauna owners end up doing. They install inexpensive red LED strips for the ambient atmosphere (let's be honest, the red glow feels great) and then add a dedicated red light therapy panel for the actual therapeutic benefit. Best of both worlds. The strips set the mood. The panel does the real work.

Realistic expectations for sauna light strips

Let's cut through the marketing and talk about what you can actually expect from red light strips in a sauna. No hype. Just reality.

What strips can realistically do

Quality strips positioned within 4-6 inches of your skin can deliver a low-level photobiomodulation dose. Over a 20-30 minute sauna session, this adds up to somewhere in the range of 5-15 J/cm2 at the skin surface for strips positioned close to the body. That's in the low end of the therapeutic range, but it's not zero.

For skin health specifically, this might actually be useful. Collagen stimulation, mild anti-inflammatory effects, and improved skin tone can occur at relatively low energy densities. If better skin is your primary goal and the strips are close to your face or body, you could see modest benefits over time.

What strips can't do

They won't match the performance of a dedicated red light therapy panel. Not even close. For deep tissue treatment, joint pain relief, muscle recovery, or any condition that requires high irradiance and deep penetration, strips simply don't deliver enough power. Expecting strip-level irradiance to treat knee arthritis is like expecting a candle to heat a room. The physics doesn't work.

1

Mood and ambiance: excellent

Red LED strips create a beautiful, relaxing atmosphere in any sauna. The warm red glow enhances the sauna experience aesthetically. This alone is worth the investment for many people.

2

Skin benefits: modest

Close-range strips (within 4-6 inches) can deliver enough energy for mild skin benefits over time. Don't expect dramatic results, but cumulative low-dose exposure may support collagen and skin health.

3

Surface inflammation: minimal

Some anti-inflammatory effect on surface tissues is possible with quality 660nm strips at close range. But the dose per session is low compared to dedicated treatment.

4

Deep tissue/joints: negligible

LED strips don't produce enough irradiance for meaningful deep tissue penetration. For joint pain, muscle recovery, or anything below the skin, use a proper panel instead.

5

Replacing a dedicated RLT device: no

Strips supplement your therapy at best. They can't replace a purpose-built photobiomodulation device for serious therapeutic applications.

The supplemental mindset

Think of sauna LED strips as a supplement to your red light therapy routine, not a replacement for it. The sauna session itself provides heat therapy benefits. The strips add a small photobiomodulation bonus on top. Together with a dedicated panel used outside the sauna, you've got a comprehensive light therapy setup. But strips alone aren't enough for serious therapeutic goals.

Cost analysis: strips vs panels

Money matters. Let's break down what you're actually paying for and what you get in return.

Cost comparison of different sauna red light setups
SetupUpfront costTherapeutic valueLifespanCost per useful session
Generic red LED strips$20-50Very low (ambient only)1-3 years in saunaN/A (no therapeutic dose)
Therapeutic-grade strips (660nm/850nm)$80-200Low to moderate2-5 years in sauna$0.15-0.40
Dedicated sauna RLT panel$200-600High5-10 years in sauna$0.05-0.15
Standard RLT panel (outside sauna)$150-500High10+ years (no heat stress)$0.03-0.10
Full setup: strips + external panel$250-700Highest (ambient + therapeutic)Varies by component$0.08-0.20

The numbers tell an interesting story. Therapeutic-grade strips cost more upfront than generic ones, deliver modest benefits, and need replacing sooner due to heat damage. A dedicated panel costs more initially but delivers dramatically higher therapeutic value and lasts longer, making the per-session cost much lower.

The cheapest generic strips are the worst value. They look pretty but deliver zero therapeutic benefit, and they'll corrode in a year or two. You're paying $20-50 for mood lighting that needs regular replacement.

The best value? A quality red light therapy panel used outside the sauna (or through a glass door) combined with inexpensive red LED strips for ambiance inside. You get full therapeutic dosing from the panel, a beautiful red glow from the strips, and neither component compromises the other.

Factor in replacement costs

LED strips in a sauna environment need replacing every 2-5 years. Factor in $80-200 every few years for therapeutic-grade strips. A panel that lives outside the sauna at room temperature will last its full 50,000-hour rating with no degradation, no replacements, and no moisture damage. Over 10 years, the panel saves you money.

Safety considerations for sauna LED installations

Mixing electricity, heat, and moisture is inherently something you need to do carefully. Saunas aren't just hot. They cycle between extreme heat and cool-down. Condensation forms on every surface. Steam attacks any exposed electronics. Here are the safety rules that matter.

Safety essentials

  • Keep power supply and all mains voltage wiring outside the sauna
  • Use only low-voltage (12V or 24V DC) wiring inside the cabin
  • Choose silicone-insulated wire rated for 200C for in-sauna runs
  • Install a GFCI/RCD breaker on the circuit feeding the power supply
  • Use IP65+ rated strips with silicone enclosures
  • Mount strips in aluminum channels for heat dissipation
  • Test the full installation before permanent mounting
  • Inspect strips and connections every few months for corrosion

Avoid these mistakes

  • Never put a mains voltage power supply inside the sauna
  • Never use standard PVC-insulated wire inside the hot zone
  • Don't run strips without a heat sink in saunas above 60C
  • Don't ignore flickering or dimming: these indicate thermal stress
  • Don't use strips with exposed solder joints in a steam environment
  • Never splice wiring inside the sauna where moisture can reach connections
  • Don't exceed the amperage rating of your wiring or connectors

Electrical safety is non-negotiable

If you're not confident with low-voltage electrical work, hire a professional. A sauna is not the place for guesswork. Water, heat, and electricity are a dangerous combination when done wrong. A licensed electrician can ensure your installation meets local building codes and won't create a fire or shock hazard.

Eye protection in a sauna with red light strips

At the irradiance levels most LED strips produce, eye safety isn't a major concern. The light is far too weak to cause retinal damage. But if you've installed high-power strips or a dedicated panel inside the sauna, and the light is shining directly into your eyes, consider wearing protective goggles during sessions. Near-infrared at 850nm is invisible but can still be absorbed by your retinas. It's better to be cautious.

For most strip installations, simply not staring directly at the LEDs is sufficient. Position strips behind you or below eye level to avoid direct eye exposure entirely.

Frequently asked questions

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